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Aug/Sept, 1998
No. 036/VI/98


Cover Story

Young Guns
Bali's Generation X speak out


Beyond Bali

Bali-Sumbawa Surfari
Gone Surfin",
by boat

Regular

Gallery
Imagining the Soul

Health and Beauty
Which Doctor?

Food
Something Fishy

Fiction
Womb by Cok Sawitri

Jungle Drums


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Jean Couteau explores the spiritual basis of Balinese witch-doctoring, and explains why Balinese often favour this knowledge over western medicine.

Ever since Hippocrates attributed illness to the circulation of various humours - or fluids - running through the human body, Westerners have considered medicine as a field of rational knowledge, a science with causes and effects, and a corpus of well-defined diseases and remedies. But death is ever present, and its fear ever pervasive. Whatever the progress of drugs and surgery, quack doctors and gurus of nouveau sects are there to remind us that rationality is subject to varying interpretations.

balian.jpg (15536 bytes)So is the case in Bali. According to Balinese tradition, illness is attributed to certain invisible (niskala) causes, so that to be afflicted by pain or illness is to be subjected to imbalances of a cosmic nature. To grasp this it is important to know that the Balinese understand the human body as a ‘little world’ or microcosm (bhwana alit). As such it is the exact structural replica of the ‘larger world’ or macrocosm (bhwana agung), complete with the same constituant gods - those of the compass rose (pangider-ider) - and the five elements (panca maha buta). Any imbalance on this cosmic chain is echoed throughout the whole system. Illnesses are examples of such imbalances at the microcosmic level, and wars, volcanic eruptions and epidemics at the larger macro-cosmic level. Hence the need for rituals to maintain the cosmic balance, and the need for intermediaries who can detect imbalances balances (the trance priests), or who can communicate with the niskala world in order to heal (the balian or witch-doctors).

There are several kinds of balian. Some, known as balian usada, specialize in medicinal herbs and their knowledge rests on their mastering of sacred lontar books. These are usually, but not exclusively, passed on from father to son or near relative. Although the potency of the medicine delivered by balian usada is ultimately linked to the magical power of his family shrine (sanggah/merajan ), such balians are, ultimately, believers in ‘medical rationality’ in the Western sense of the word. They ‘know’ their herbs and the way they work. They are the heirs of centuries of trial and error. Quinine, which prevents malaria, was widely used by balians before modern pharmacists made it into respectable medicine.

There is also the the balian tetakson , the witch-doctor whose powers rest totally on privileged communication with the outer world. The key to the balian tetakson’s power is taksu, roughly translated as inspiration. Taksu is a kind of magical force. Originating from the niskala world, taksu comes down - or is called down - to dwell on a shrine, a person or an object, and it endows the person or thing on which it dwells with magical powers.

Ordinary people get their taksu - or in this sense, inspiration - from one of the shrines of the family temple, called the kemulan taksu, through which they can relate with the ‘soul of their origin’, which, it is said, usually dwells in the mountains. The taksu with which balians are endowed can come down and ‘perch’ (nginceg) on them unexpectedly, or it can be ‘caught’ purposely. Spiritually-minded Balinese from all walks of life, be they balians, dancers, puppet masters, lovers or politicians go to great lengths to catch a taksu. It usually haunts spiritually significant places such as shrines or temples in the wilderness or on the tops of mountains. Initiates go there in numbers to ‘ask for taksu’ (nunas taksu). Nowadays, taksu obtained in the mountains of Bali is generally thought to be rather flakey. The trend now is to go to, Java or even India for the most authentic taksu. A Balinese friend told me he got his taksu from a stone he found in Ayodhya, the birthplace of Rama, in India! Another got his taksu at a spring on the foot of Mount Penanggungan, a mountain in East Java. Even balians, it seems, have been nationalised and globalised.

Above:
1.Balian Ida Bagus Ketut Mandya

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