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Aug/Sept, 1998
No. 036/VI/98


Cover Story

Young Guns
Bali's Generation X speak out


Beyond Bali

Bali-Sumbawa Surfari
Gone Surfin",
by boat

Regular

Gallery
Imagining the Soul

Health and Beauty
Which Doctor?

Food
Something Fishy

Fiction
Womb by Cok Sawitri

Jungle Drums


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As Bali’s breaks become increasingly overpopulated, surf trips by boat to other islands are ever-more sought after. Veteran surf photographer Peter Crawford boarded one vessel bound for Sumbawa.

It all began when Bill Boyum discovered G-Land in Java, one of the world’s greatest left-hand breaking waves. Soon after, Rex Patten, a long-time resident of Bali, built a small vessel to seek out new surf spots in Lombok, and Paul King started ferrying surf-starved adventurers on his 'Sri Whidana' to the islands east of Bali. Simultaneously, it was these two who paved the way for the charters that now take surfers all over Indonesia.

King’s surf-ari started at Desert Point in Lombok and continued around the rugged coast to the various magical breaks that were otherwise unknown. The charter ended up on the western coast of Sumbawa, which like Desert Point and Ulu’s, boasts one of the world’s greatest natural resources - perfect waves that grind and tube mechanically over coral reefs. Two such waves are Scar Reef and Super Suck. Scar Reef is so named for its shallow sections when the break is small. But given a 2-3 meter swell one of the most challenging left-breaking waves emerges, enticing the uninitiated into the shallows of her perfect tube. Only the strong survive a blow from her unrelenting tube that chases them until the ride is completed in the channel. For those who are unsuccessful, the coral inflicts a gruesome souvenir of their failure. As for Super Suck - when I first visited this idyllic bay in 1988, not a soul was visible. Now, a gold mine leaves an ugly gash in the once pristine landscape between Scar Reef and Super Suck. Freighters, tractors and helicopters and thousand of workers who are on the job day and night starkly juxtapose the green principles of the surfing lifestyle.

Such was the sad reality I discovered early in 1998 when I revisited Sumbawa on a surf charter. This time, it was with Brett Beezely - with whom I had been the first to document West Java’s One Palm Point in 1988 - Chris ‘Critta’ Byrne, Tiger Tours Captain James Higginbotham, Hawaiian buddies Tim and Kirby, ‘new guard’ of young, professional surfers Made Lana, Made Lapor and my son Scott Crawford, and the Ana Ruyung’s trust crew of four.

Above:
1. The view a surfer lives for
2. Made Lapor's aerial explosion at Marbles, Sumbawa
3. Our vehicle, 'The Little Mermaid' parked at Desert Point, Lombok

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