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cover

Oct/Nov, 1998
No. 037/VI/98


Cover Story

On Live The Banjar
Balinese communalism in the age of reform


Beyond Bali

All In Good Fun
Lombok's stick fighters


Regular

Home Grown
Grommet Grrls

Gallery
Murni's Pure Instinct

Health and Beauty
Ubud's Bali Hati Foundation

Adventure
Cruising on the High Seas

Food
Hard Rocks's new spirit

Books
The Kris of Death reviewed

Fiction
Oka Rusmini's 'Clouds over Kuri Gede'

Jungle Drums

Tide Charts

Bali Sing Kenken


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on the high sea
bali hai aristrocratNo matter how you get there, once at Lembongan there is a plethora of activities on offer from each company. Parasailing, snorkeling, surfing, kayaking, pool and beach side relaxation, banana-boat rides and village tours. Bali Hai and Island Explorer offer it all and promote the more active, motor-driven pursuits of banana-boat rides and parasailing or touring the reef from a semi-submergible and glass-bottom boats. While Wakalouka follows a more traditional philosophy of blending in with the natural environment and offer snorkeling and surfing excursions and village tours. Their Waka Nusa beach side resort is richly detailed with Balinese touches and simplicity. Comfortable bales and deck chairs are scattered about a small pool and the grounds of their hotel bungalows. Bali Hai also has a comfortable beach side resort and pool, while Island Explorer has their Coconuts Bar on the beach, but most of their activities, including lunch, are organized from the anchored Island Princess.

In the course of several excursions to Nusa Lembongan, I managed to try just about everything on offer from simple relaxation to the active, adrenaline-producing pursuits. All companies offer snorkeling tours of the reef and provide well-maintained gear. Bali Hai has a reef-side, moored pontoon equipped with a water slide to play on, as well as a smaller floating dock for snorkeling. The other companies organize their tours from the beach side or directly off the boat you came on. On calmer days, the reef was accessible, clear and active. It is a nice area to snorkel with plenty of underwater sights to keep you entertained. However, when the ocean swells are high, companies discourage snorkeling, as the reef is too cloudy to see anything.

One of the highlights of these excursions was a first attempt at parasailing, with Bali Hai. After the initial jerk of the rope being released, it was a smooth rise with the parachute being towed behind a small speedboat. I was a little apprehensive about this experience, but soon the calm whoosh of the wind in my ears and the views of the whole scene, including a spotting of a school of dolphins prancing in the water below, made it an almost transcendental moment that I wished could go on much longer.

At Nusa Lembongan it is easy to get distracted with all the water activities on offer, but it would be an oversight to miss a small peek inland to the small nearby village and the seaweed cultivation areas. Wakalouka hosted a tour to the other side of the island where the shallows between Nusa Lembongan and its smaller sister island Nusa Ceningan house the underwater fences where the seaweed is grown. We visited a small processing area to get a closer look at the gelatinous and plastic-looking varieties of colorful seaweed, which is harvested and sorted primarily for export to Japan, Hong Kong and Europe and which provides a stable income for the island population of about 3,000 people.

The village itself is a small, well-maintained Balinese village with a hilltop temple and the quirky tourist attraction called the underground house. The underground house is a bizarre architectural feat created by one passionately driven man with a chisel and a Mahabharata-inspired vision. It is a dark and dank rock-hewn maze of crawl spaces and rooms, identifiable as bedrooms and a kitchen by the furniture shapes also carved into the rock. It took about 15 years to complete and villagers have honored the creator with a life-like statue and shrine near one of its seven entrances.

 

 

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