To those who know anything of Indonesia’s volcanic history, it may come as a surprise to know that it is a mere three years since Lombok’s Mount Rinjani was designated as part of a 15,000 ha national park. For not only is the 3726 meter-high active volcano Indonesia’s second highest peak after Irian Jaya’s Jayawijaya range. It also happens to be both environmentally unique and central to the local Sasak people’s cultural beliefs. Moreover, it just about tops the list of the archipelago’s most active volcanoes, being less than half a decade since Rinjani’s lesser summit Barujari erupted in 1994.

If you are an extremely fit, hardcore, nature-loving traveler, the trek up Rinjani is an adventure for you. Unlike many other mountain treks, it’s not just the view of the surrounding countryside and crater-lake Segara Anak that makes the trip worthwhile. The walking track towards the peak leads through bush alive with deer, anteaters, feral cats and dogs, porcupines, snakes, and monkeys. A variety of birds serenade happy trekkers, and the areas diverse plant life includes wild orchids and other wildflowers which add colour to the track to the summit.

THE SENARU ROUTE

There are two routes to Senaru’s summit. One begins at the village of Senaru, around 80 kilometers north of Mataram. Reaching Senaru is rather costly, as it requires hiring a bemo and a driver at Rp80,000 one way. As well as being one of the starting points for the Rinjani trek, Senaru is worth a visit in itself for its Sendang Gile falls and traditional Sasak housing. There are a number of losmens - ranging in price from Rp10,000 to Rp50,000 per night – and restaurants, making the village a comfortable place to spend the night before making the climb. It is highly advisable to climb with a guide, a number of whom can be employed as part of a choice of three packages. A 3-day climb costs Rp300,000 per person and includes a guide, a porter, a cook and takes climbers as far as Lake Segara Anak. Sleeping bags, jackets and tents are also part of the package, so climbers barely need take anything. A four-day trek at Rp400,000 includes the same facilities and takes climbers to the Rinjani summit. Or those on a tight budget can pay Rp50,000 for a porter alone, whose food and any other costs they must cover.

The trek to the Rinjani summit consist of four stages as follows:

• Senaru – Base Camp: a 4-hour, 30 – 40 degree ascent over muddy terrain
• Base Camp – Plawangan I: a 2-hour, 45 – 60 degree ascent over sandy, rocky terrain
• Plawangan I – Lake Segara Anak: a four-hour, 30 – 60 degree ascent over dry, rocky terrain
• Lake Segara Anak – Plawangan II: a 4-hour ascent over dry, rocky terrain
• Plawangan II – Rinjani summit: a three-hour, 45 – 90 degree ascent over sandy terrain

Of utmost importance is to remember to guard against becoming physically run down, and to always maintain a positive mental attitude. Take extra care when crossing the dry, rocky terrain between Plawangan I and the Rinjani summit, as one false move on the slippery pebbles could land you in the crater.

THE SEMBALUN LAWANG ROUTE

Sembalun Lawang, about 139 kilometres north-east of Mataram is to be used as a starting point for the Rinjani trek only by strictly professional climbers, who have all their own trekking gear and don’t need a guide. Primarily a market gardening village, Sembalun Lawang only has one losmen, and rooms cost Rp10,000 per night.

The trek to Rinjani summit or Lake Segara Anak from Sembalun Lawang consists of two stages as follows:

• Sembalun Lawang – Plawangan II: an 8-hour, 30 – 60 degree ascent over grassy terrain
• Plawangan II – Rinjani summit: a 3-hour 45 – 60 degree ascent over rocky terrain

Or

• Plawangan II – Lake Segara Anak: a 2-hour, 45 – 60 degree descent over slippery pebbles.
  

Take care to stick to the correct route as the track frequently forks off onto dead ends. Take lots of water as there are few water sources along the way.

NB: prices quoted in this article are subject to change

Photos and text by Arie Basuki