
Dec/Jan/98-99
No. 038/VIII/98-99

Curse or Blessing ?
Bali's tourism industry at the
crossroads
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Patting the
Komodo's
On a ministerial bandwagon to
Flores

Gallery
made Supena's abstract art
Postcard
Tony Stanton gets the phone
connected
Health and Beauty
Jamu, Java's golden
herbal tonics
Adventure
In the mount:
camels, horses, elephants
Home
Grown
Indo Surf and Lingo's Peter
Neely
Books
The best of Bali's bookshops
Fiction
'Are You Mr. Wayan?' by Wayan Suardika'
Jungle Drums
Bali Sing Kenken

Climbing Rinjani
An exclusive
report on climbing experience of the exotic Rinjani Mount
Many
Roots One Faith
Jean Couteau's article on Lombok
sociology
The Senaru
Review another route of trekking to
Rinjani from Sanaru Village
Lombok Update

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Many roots, one faith Although the island of Lombok is famed for its strong Islamic bent,
to refer to its indigenous Sasak people as religiously orthodox would be sociologically
irresponsible at worst, misleading at best. For a great number of Sasaks follow an Islamic
tradition known as the Wetu Telu, a highly syncretic religious practice in which
Hindu-Javanese, Balinese and elements of indigenous Sasak pre-Islamic culture come
together in the local interpretation of Islam. By Jean Couteau
Lombok entered written history when
it became a dependency of the empire of Majapahit, which controlled the route to the Spice
islands to the East in the 14th and 15th century. A curious historical fact is that it may
have been the colonisation of Lombok by the Hindu-Javanese empire that facilitated the
entry of Islam to the island. Islamic tombs found on the site of Majapahit suggest that
Islam, the religion of most of the traders plying the spice route, was present in the
capital of the empire. It is also likely that Moslem traders operated on several coastal
areas of the island, as the chronicle of the royal family of Bayan, in the north of the
island, talks of people "all abandoning their religion and becoming Moslems"
towards the end of the 15th century. Evidence of this early brand of Islam is found in the
existence of East Javanese-style mosques in northern Lombok.
Lom bok's
official conversion to Islam may actually have been a continuation of the Islamisation of
Java by the trader-missionaries who destroyed the empire of Majapahit at the beginning of
the 16th century, and established sultanate of Demak, known as "the Mecca of the
East", which replaced Majapahit for a century. According to two chronicles, the Babad
Tanah Jawi and the Babad Lombok - respectively the Java and Lombok chronicles - one of
these missionaries, the Lord of Giri (near Surabaya in East Java),having met with success
in Java, undertook to send his disciples to the still heathen lands of the East. To the
Celebes, Ternate and Tidore he sent Datuk Randan, to Borneo he sent Lembu Mangkurat and to
Lombok, Bali and Sumbawa he sent his own son, Sunan Prapen.
Sunan Prapen is said to have arrived
in Lombok around 1540. The brand of Islam he taught appears to have been mystical in
nature, akin to Islamic Sufism. In this way, he greatly facilitating the incorporation of
elements Islam into the existing, pre-Islamic religious practices of which, like Sufism,
mysticism was an important part. According to the chronicle, Sunan Prapen trained six
disciples, who in turn taught six disciples each, thus spreading the new faith throughout
the island. This co nversion may not have been
a fully religious one, however. Sunan Prapen first converted the king, Prabu Mangkusari,
and his disciples were selected among the nobility. As had been the case in Java, the
conversion of Lombok's rulers to Islam probably owed more to power allegiances than to
religious concerns. Furthermore their conversion was based not on the Arabic Coran itself,
but on a Javanese reading of it, thus leaving the text open to polysemic interpretations
based on a variety of influences. It was hardly conducive to orthodoxy.
One such influence came from Bali
where, by the middle of the 16th century, King Baturenggong's kingdom of Gelgel was at the
peak of its power. By securing Blambangan in Java to the West and Lombok and Sumbawa to
the East, Baturenggong kept attempts at Islamisation at bay. To this day, the capacity of
Gelgel to resist Islamisation is frequently attributed to Baturenggong's priest-minister,
Dang Hyang Nirartha, a great reformer of Balinese Hinduism and the builder of many of the
island's temples. Before moving to Bali, the priest lived in Kediri (Java), where he is
likely to have been in c ontact with Sufi Moslems. Dang Hyang Nirartha, in
whose day Balinese Hindu society was deeply polytheistic, is believed to have been
responsible for the dissemination of the monotheistically-inclined Hinduism of modern
Bali. It is a tribute to Nirartha's diplomatic skills that the spread of his ideas about a
monotheist Hinduism, whilst probably drawing directly on the Islamic emphasis on the
Oneness of God, seems to have played an important role in stemming the island's conversion
to Islam. This makes Nirartha one of Bali's most key historical figures, for it is
probably due to him that Bali has retained the practices which make it, according to
historians, like a 'living museum', where a culture reminiscent of that of 14th century
Java - at the time when Bali 'annexed' by the Java-based Majapahit - continues to thrive.
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