Whether you're looking for a cruise on a classic Grand Banks, with a couple of rods trawling as a distraction, for a speed boat that will zip against the swell jumping waves like a giant jet ski, then settle at Nusa Dua reef to hook colourful reef fish, or for some more serious angling on a specialised fishing boat, anything is possible in Bali. Emma Baulch reviews some of the fishing tours available.

WAKALOUKA
My fishing appointment with Wakalouka was contingent upon one thing: the weather. It did occur to me that, when Bill Quinlan said he would ring on the day to make last minute confirmations, that the rainy season wasn't the most sensible time to be doing a piece on fishing trips in Bali. As I eagerly awaited the day of our departure with Wakalouka, gail-force winds uprooted trees and blocked major streets in Denpasar, and heavy rains submerged much of the city under several inched of water. It was looking less and less likely that my fishing adventure was going to eventuate.

But it did. On the appointed day at noon, we found ourselves at Benoa Marina, looking at the Blue Marlin's two Daiwa trawling reels and their extended rods, glinting in the sunlight. The sky was cloudless, the sea swelled only gently, and there was no stopping us making for Nusa Lembongan in search of fish.

The Blue Marlin, a classic Grand Banks boat, the very aesthetic of which seems to enhance the pleasure of feeling the swell roll under the hull. Every one of the boat's attribute is a joy to study, from its polished wooden wheels on both upper and lower decks, to the earthy, canvas seating in the cabin and the timber slat benches that hem the rim of the lower deck, where fishers can squat comfortably while keeping one sensitive digit on the line.

The Blue Marlin is not a speed boat, that rockets over the strait, jetting against the swell as if the sea offered some kind of show ride. Grand Banks put along at a dignified speed, and ride the waves graciously. There are two reasons why this is a good thing. Firstly, because the slower the boat goes, the longer passengers get to enjoy its beauty and comfort and the joy of being at sea. Secondly, because the kind of fishing done from this boat is trawling, with lures as bait which skip the surface of the water if the boat is going too fast.

The trip on which Bali Echo was kindly hosted included an overnight stay on Wakalouka's Waka Nusa Resort on Nusa Lembongan, thus combining two of the one-day fishing trips Wakalouka has available for visitors. Visitors staying on Bali can book the boat for a day of fishing, thus leaving from Benoa Harbour. It's up to guests to determine when they want to leave and return, and where they want to go to fish, but Wakalouka's skillful staff can suggest several abundant fishing spots, the best times of day to fish there, and help beginners with lures and reels. Or guests of Wakalouka's Waka Nusa Resort on Nusa Lembongan can similarly book the Blue Marline for a day of fishing, thus leaving from and returning to Waka Nusa instead of Benoa.

We left Benoa Harbour at 12 noon, filling our empty bellies with the generous spread of fat tuna sandwiches and fruit as we made our way past perfectly maintained yachts, dilapidated fishing boats, rusting Japanese trawlers, and even an ominous US Navy sloop. We had rigged our lures up and were just about to drop our lines in the water when a barracuda surprised us by leaping high out of the water and splashing down right behind the boat.

top: bringing in the bounty aboard the Island Explorer

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