Where can a vegetarian eat in Bali? That was my assignment and being a thirteen -year vegetarian myself, forever searching for interesting and good-tasting food, I fell to it with greedy glee. In Ubud, Sanur and Kuta I visited four very different possible venues for the vegetarian diner.

TUTMAK
Apart from culture and art Ubud is known as a place to eat well and I was delighted that this time I had an excuse for excess. A popular and well-known haunt with both the expat and tourist crowd alike is Tutmak on Jl. Dewi Sita. Although not exclusively a vegetarian establishment and the fact its vegetarian cuisine is not promoted, the majority of the clientele is vegetarian and Tutmak is known for its fine vegetarian food. This open and airy caf was designed by the owner Ketut Suwitra and is on two levels. The walls are full of paintings by local artists and there is a choice of lounging on cushions at low tables or sitting at the more usual tables and chairs. The overall ambience is bright and friendly and invites you to stay awhile and many do. The friendly, helpful and loyal staff has mostly been there since the start. In order to maintain the high quality of both the food and the customer service "we would prefer to turn people away rather than pack people in" says Ketut.

Ketut and his wife's original concept almost five years ago was a place for good coffee and desserts and they are famous for their variety of coffee, decaffeinated Lavazza coffee is available, teas and fantastic desserts. The present menu, designed by Ketut's wife who is American, is broad and quite international in flavour -80% of the food is imported. There is an interesting mix of cuisine, such as Asian (including local Balinese and traditional Indonesian), Italian and Middle-Eastern and the portions are very generous indeed! There is a large selection of healthy, nutritious vegetarian food and everything is made daily on the premises.

For the hungry vegetarian there are three tasty sandwiches to choose from on freshly made white or sunflower and rosemary bread or on whole wheat or white baguettes. The organic salads are hearty and nutritious, try one with Tutmak's famous yummy dressings. Fancy a vegetarian burger? How about Tutmak's own? A blend of nuts and legumes topped with cheese and salad trimmings and served with chips (for the health conscious you can substitute a scrumptious organic salad instead of chips).

Pasta aficionados should go for the Green Goddess Lasagne as I did. Layers of green lasagne, fresh spinach, and feta cheese cooked in a basil and parsley chamel sauce. The flavours were subtle and it wasn't heavy as vegetable lasagnes can sometimes be. In keeping with the idea of ample helpings it arrived with an organic salad and two pieces of bread. My companion started with the soup of the day, a subtle and tasty homemade tomato soup, followed by the Middle Eastern Plate, a delicious and bountiful combination of hummus, couscous, tabouleh, falafel, babaganoosh and an organic salad dressed with Tutmak's own special vinaigrette and served with bread.

There is such a vast assortment of side orders to choose from that you can make up your own luscious meal. Go local and opt for Balinese potato, tofu or corn fritters and curried tempe, perhaps with a side serving of green vegetables. Or picnic on Kalamata olives, mashed potatoes, corn on the cob, homemade falafel and a salad plate of tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil. A fun way to pig out!. Tel. (0361) 975 754

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