The Balinese believe that Mount Agung is the birthplace of the God Siwa and therefore represents eternal holiness. But as well as spiritual significance, the mountain, which at 3142m above sea level is the island’s highest peak, also harbours astounding natural beauty. According to Arie Basuki, to stand on its summit is to become aware of nature’s metaphysical nuances

Mount Agung is believed to the middle link in a chain of three volcanoes that includes Java’s highest peak, the 3676m-high Mount Semeru to Bali’s west, and Lombok’s 3726m-high Mount Rinjani to its east. According to myth, Siwa made the mountains to ensure the stability of Nusantara (the Indonesian archipelago) by slicing three peaks from the Himalayas, and deposited them in Java, Bali and Lombok respectively. For this reason, all religious ceremonies held at Mount Agung’s Besakih temple make use of holy water deriving from both Mount Semeru and Mount Rinjani.

Balinese believe Mount Agung to be the place where the great god Siwa resides. The Siwa-ist orientation of their religion is clearly reflected in the fact that the mother temple of Balinese Hinduism, Pura Besakih, is located on the slopes of Mount Agung. According to I Ketut Wiana, a Balinese Hindu intellectual, the erection of the temple on Mount Agung was meant to appease Siwa, and to protect the local population against volcanic eruptions.

ERUPTIONS

Over the past 2000 years, Mount Agung has erupted four times, at least according to documented history. The first eruption, known as Rudhira Bumi, took place in the 11th Saka year (of the Hindu Calendar), or 89 A.D. The second eruption, referred to as Gni Budhara, took place in the 13th year of the Hindu calendar, or 92 A.D. This was the mountain’s most momentous eruption yet. An earthquake occurred as a result and it rained heavily non-stop for two months. It was on the occasion of this second eruption that Hyang Putra Jaya, an incarnation of Siwa, descended to the Earth to reside on the summit of Mount Agung. The third eruption occurred in the 70th year of the Hindu calendar, or 148 A.D. After this eruption, a spring emerged on the slopes of Gunung Agung, and the water from this spring began to be used as one of the main ceremonial elements for religious rites at Pura Besakih. The fourth eruption, known as Wak Sasih Wak, took place in the 111th year of the Hindu calendar, or 189 A.D. The last time Mount Agung erupted was in the 1885th year of the Hindu calendar, or 1963 A.D. In this most recent eruption, Pura Besakih was razed to the ground and 1500 people were consumed by lava flows.

HOME OF THE GODS

Mount Agung plays a central role in the spiritual life of the Balinese. All Balinese temples and shrines face the mountain, and the biggest and most important religious rituals are conducted there. Among these, the Panca Wali Krama, which is held every ten years, the Eka Dasa Rudra, which is held every hundred years, and, according to one traditional Balinese text known as the Lontar Dang Dang Bong Bunyal, there is even one ritual, the Maligya Merbhu Bhumi, which is only held every thousand years. In fact, just recently, in March 1999, the ten-year Panca Wali Krama was conducted at Pura Besakih. All of these rites are aimed at ensuring the wellbeing of all earthly beings, and include various live sacrifices to Siwa.

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above : Edelweis at the Summit of Deceipt.

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