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Bali Echo 42th edition

No.042/VIII - Aug/Sep' 99

cover story
Ashes to Ashes
Balinese cremation ceremonies

Lombok echo
A Lonely Market

From Bali to Lombok
Balinese influences in Lombok

Lombok Update

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Gallery
Reaching the Planet

Gallery
Maintaining the Creative Flow

Entertainment
Eternal Dances

Homegrown
The Olympic Dream

Food
Ubud Favourites & Flavours

Adventure
Bali's Golf World

Fashion
The Magic of Silk

Books
The Female Touch

Fiction
Century Sculptor

Postcard
Jane

Jungle Drums

Bali Sing KenKen


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Ashes to Ashes

p8.jpg (24012 bytes)In 1904, there was an event that initiated the banning of masatya. When the son of King Ngurah Agung of Puri Tabanan was preparing to cremate his father, the King's widows indicated that they were ready to undergo the satya ritual. The Dutch colonial government tried to stop the event by sending two warships to blockade the south beach at Tabanan.
    The prince went ahead with the ceremony, which took place on 20 October 1904. Eventually, however, strong pressure from the colonial press and government urged the prince to sign a contract agreeing to the outlawing of widow-burning.
    Since that time, regular Balinese cremation ceremonies - with their accompanying beleganjur orchestras and the burning of the lembu and the wadah, have become major tourist attractions. At the same time, the tourism industry as a whole, with its big-time capital investment and resort development, has worked to change the social structure of Balinese society and as such has had serious implications for the commercialisation of the cremation ritual.

Cremation becomes commercialised
    There has probably been little change in the cremation rite between the 1930s, when Covarrubias witnessed the mass cremation of around 250 bodies in Kerobokan, Kuta, and the current time. Now, as then, the practise of the cremation ritual has been based on the legitimacy of the caste system, and functions to strengthen the hierarchical relations between the high-caste brahmana with Balinese of lower castes. The New Order government, making use of existing social hierarchies to further its political interests, has praised the 'traditional' cremation rite and espoused its perservation. In the New Order context, the cremation rite became a communal space, in which people worked together to prepare for the ceremony. Such preparation could involve hundreds of people, take several days, and cost millions of rupiah. Many Balinese families find they have to either hock or sell pieces of land in order send their ancestors off with due respect. And it is tour operators who have most benefited from the increasing and overwhelming hype surrounding cremation ceremonies.
    According to Prof Ngurah Bagoes, a professor in the Faculty of Letters at Denpasar's Udayana University, such hype is rarely accompanied by a deep understanding of religious essentials. Indeed, a number of religious scholars have registered complaints about the conflicting trends towards increasingly elaborate rituals on the one hand and the erosion of basic religious knowledge on the other. Some see the ever more complex ritual and offerings as evidence of Balinese peoples' creativity and artistic skill. To deprive Balinese Hinduism of its aesthetic, they say, is to destroy the very core of the island's culture. Others, however, argue that it is a waste of natural and human resources. Indeed, the majority of Balinese are not opposed to the simplification of the cremation rite. In fact, in recent years, certain changes have already taken place.
    In the seventies, wood was used to feed the fire. Nowadays, due to the expense and difficulty of obtaining enough wood to burn the body, gas burners are used instead. Using gas, the body can be burnt in only 2 hours. Other changes have taken place in the process of construction of the lembu and the wadah. Whereas making the processional towers used to be a communal effort, now people can buy them from a traditional architect or undagi. Similarly, the offerings used in the ritual can either be made by the women of the house or simply purchased from the high priest who is to lead the rite. Such commercialisation, it seems, is difficult to avoid, even if many are concerned about its potential to undermine village solidarity.

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