The Handara is a deceptively difficult course. Don’t let the wide fairways fool you. There are plenty of bunkers, lakes and other water hazards to get you into trouble. My favourite hole is the 18th. It’s designed the way I like to have the final hole of the course. A par five, a long 560 yards, and the 18th is beautifully landscaped all the way up to the clubhouse. It helps to know there’s a cold beverage waiting for you when you are finished. The most difficult hole on the course is the par four, third. I don’t know why, but there must be a force field protecting the river that slices across in front of the green. It took me three shots to get over it!

The Handara is a much older course than any on Bali, in fact it’s one of the oldest in Indonesia, and that is one of its best assets. After so many years the greens are immaculate and the fairways a rich carpet of native grasses. The volcano tends to draw in clouds in the afternoons, and the resultant rains give the Handara course mother nature’s best sprinkler system, so the morning is the best time to play. During the rainy season the course is much lusher than in the dry.

Another tip: Do the two-hour drive from Kuta the day before you play and stay at one of the Handara bungalows or the hotel. That way you can start early enough to get in two rounds if you wish. Then you can save the afternoon for exploring the nearby town of Bedugal. Or have a workout in the fitness centre. Or better yet, take a long soak in Handara’s steamy hot tub in true Japanese style. The steam rooms are very traditionally Japanese in their decor, perhaps an indication of the style of Masato Nakado, Handara’s hospitable General Manager.

For those of you that want to get out and play some of the royal and ancient game in Bali but didn’t bring your clubs, you can always rent a set at any of the above courses. If you’ve never played or would like to take some lessons, all three courses offer instruction at their driving ranges.

One final note: Be sure to wear a collared Polo-style shirt, or something close to it. Even in Bali there is some decorum, although golf shoes are not always mandatory. And do like your Mama told you and put plenty of sunscreen on. It’s hot out there.

end

above : Nirwana Bali Golf Resort

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