Clare Danby works her way through an exotic culinary blend of east
and west known as fusion foods, as prepared in some of the most creative
kitchens in Bali...
Fusion is one of those current foodie buzzwords. A way of
preparing food, it happens in the worlds most exciting kitchens, well doesnt
it? Ive heard it, Ive read about it, Ive eaten it, but - what exactly is
it? And, more importantly, what form does it take here in Bali?
The usual definition, according to Jeff Weinstein in
The Art of Fusion, is cooking that combines ingredients from
dramatically dissimilar cuisines or cultures. But havent foods from different
cultures been fusing all along? After all, pasta and tomato sauce is a very familiar
combination, yet Marco Polo originally carried noodles to Italy from the East and the
tomato was an American export to Europe.
The early roots of fusion are buried in the 1970s when French trained
Japanese chefs began to flirt with recipe intermarriage. Innovative
restaurants, particularly in the United States and Australia, saw that western appetites
were developing as a result of travel to far off places. Palates were becoming
increasingly nomadic and open to cultural splicing. The combinations that
resulted shocked with their audacity. A famous example is the smoked salmon and caviar
pizza! This fusion seems to be a result of late 20th Century Chef creativity.
I was very eager to taste and hear about Balis interpretation of
this international trend, and was delighted to have the opportunity to chat to the experts
at Sanurs Jazz Bar & Grille, Ubuds Arys Warung and the restaurant at
Bali Bird Park.
Jazz Bar and Grille
Plenty of parking, a pale pink façade, and air conditioning set the
scene. At The Jazz Bar and Grille you could be anywhere in the world. Claiming to offer an
International standard of entertainment, food and service, Fuji, the restaurants
manager, explained that this could be anywhere feeling is exactly their aim.
With live music including jazz, top 40s, blues and latin on offer 7 nights a week, the
Jazz Bar and Grille is a small and intimate club too.
The décor is international, with hints
of Bali evident in the plentiful wood, bamboo-like pillars, and colour choices. There are
intimate booths lining the walls on both the bar and upstairs dining floor, which is
reached by way of an elegant, sweeping, verdigris staircase. Fuji told me that the idea
was to promote a clubby atmosphere through the upstairs pool table, cityscape trompe
doeil, leather chairs, and special glass-fronted lockers, in which regular customers
can keep their special bottles of rare spirits... and other customers can covet them!)
Open from 8 am to 1.30 am, breakfast, lunch and evening meals are
available here, all boasting generous portions and swift service. I absorbed the breakfast
menu content and resolved to go back. The menu includes French toast, pancakes and a huge
variety of omelettes. Fruit juice is recommended as is the coffee, as the
restaurants owner, Pak Wirawan, is involved with Bhineka Jaya (Bali Coffee), so
beans are specially roasted for the restaurant.
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Top : Stuffed Lobster at Jazz Bar and Grille
Below: Diners enjoy a selection of fusion flavours at Ary's Warung |