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What an engaging perspect an evening cruise is: the sunset, the sea, a good food and warm breeze on the water. Bali has a host of sea going vessels and thw majority offers their own version of the evening 'dinner cruise'. Whilts all these short cruises consist of the gentle excursion around Benoa by and a meal, the presentation and character varies hugly.+

The short cruise operators are a highly competitive bunch. Their colourful billboards line the bypass and their glossy brochures fill the stands in hotel foyers. Every brochure claims a high quality and plentiful food but all travel agents and tour guides have their own loyalties - so how to be sure that the cruise you choose is the right one? To investigate further, we boarded three; Sail Sensations, Bali Hal and Waka.

Twilight Sail Sensations

Sail Sensations is brand new. It is an Australian designed 26m catamaran with an graceful line and an endless mast that is also used for sail cruises during the day to Nusa Lembongan. The boathouse is relaxed and private with lawns where you can relax until departure at 6.30pm. Transfer to the boat is 5 minutes on a small launch. Once on board, the chef and crew greet arrivals with a smile, arak cocktail and crispy mini spring rolls. On the foredeck a guitar and saxophone duo play as the boat casts off. As the sun has already set by boarding time, it is fun to watch the harbour lights and peer inside passing boats! 

On the bridge, the captain is delighted to show you all the fantastically modern navigation equipment and to recite technical data about the boat the Glossary of Nautical terms provided at the boathouse came in very useful. On the evening we joined Sail Sensations, the sea was very choppy so we pattered around inside Benoa harbour. That is, us and all the other evening cruises. The radar screen was a sight to behold.

The restaurant caters for a maximum of 40 people. Tables are arranged around the sides of a spacious saloon with large open portholes that can be closed in the case of rain. Cushioned fitted seats are very comfortable and there is a no smoking policy. The decor is minimal and modern with plenty of natural wood although paintings that had been randomly propped against the walls don't quite fit. The tables too are dressed simply; burgundy table cloths, green napkins, white plates and plain cutlery. A fun addition is a stone pestle and mortar with chilies and onions that you can grind for yourself.

Food is prepared by the chef and his team at their boathouse restaurant and then transferred and grilled or warmed on board. Sail Sensations offer a set menu with a staggering 6 courses: starter, soup, sorbet, main course, dessert and cheese. The chef explained that the restaurant aims to offer a range of Asian and European influenced dishes, interesting yet familiar. House wine, beer and soft drinks are complimentary. As we were three,  we were able to try most items on the menu. The prospect of 6 courses becomes even more appealing as the portions sizes are not too big.

Home baked bread and a choice of herb and plain butter set the tone. The chicken breast salad served with cashew nut on oriental dressing is tender with garlicky vinaigrette. Soft sweetish onion, lombok chill) and lemon grass get the taste buds going! Pan-fried salmon with mango, olive, tomato and light balsamic dressing looks lovely and combines sweet fruit flavours with sharper pepper and garlic. Mango really is such a fabulous fruit - if only the season lasted all year...

Balinese chicken soup is a light soup that tastes overwhelmingly of the corn it also contains. Ginger and pumpkin soup is creamy and thick- its flavours melding deliciously. The soups are served in small bowls  making it a little difficult to manipulate the pleasingly large spoons.

Lime Sorbet is served in a cocktail glass. It tastes fresh and distinct - a perfect anticipation of the main  courses.

Roasted beef tenderloin in red wine sauce is served with garlic mashed potato and grilled vegetables. The sauce is peppery and the mash is cheesy. It is best to make sure that you clarify how you would like the meat cooked. Tuna medallions on wasabe lemon cream sauce comes with tomato rice and stir-fried pok choy. The tuna is tender and tasty with the wasabe adding sweetness and the pok choy a hint of aniseed.

Pineapple, coconut and palm sugar are combined with light pastry for the delicious Pineapple Strudel. The accompanying ice cream is good. The pineapple coulis doesn't do the strudel justice. Cheese platter is served with crunchy cheese topped bread. The cheeses were pleasant but all rather similar in texture. During coffee, the musicians play to requests.

Overall, Sail Sensations dinner cruise is food value. The food is good and the atmosphere conducive to a really enjoyable evening. The service is friendly although our waiter knew very little about the food we were  eating and didn't always understand our requests. The set up of the tables makes it an excellent choice for a group of perhaps 4 or more people.

Bali Hai 'Sunset  Dinner Cruise'

Bali Hai II is a boat in a very different style. 36m long, it has a maximum passenger capacity of 316 people. Also a catamaran is has three levels and looks the epitome of the 'gin palace'. Like Sail Sensations, Bali Hai II
also has a day outing. At about 4pm it returns and is thoroughly spring-cleaned before the passengers on the 'Sunset Dinner Cruise' board at 5.45pm. As the volume of passengers is so much larger, the boathouse is much bigger with a 'Bali Hai' souvenir shop and a I board displaying photos for passengers to collect on their return to land.

The Sunset Dinner Cruise is a party cruise and the programme reflects this. After all, the company's motto is '100% holiday in just one day'. A drink of fruit cocktail and a Floral Lei on land start the ball rolling. It is a simple stroll aboard as the boat moors alongside the boathouse. As you board, you pose with 2 Balinese girls
for a photo and keyboard player accompanies a female singer by the bar. The boat casts off and you can choose to go to the open upper deck, the air-conditioned lounge area or to settle by the bar where tasty canapés are handed around.

Uniformed Bali Hal hosts and hostesses are incredibly friendly, chatting and encouraging passengers to join in the fun. A magician moves around groups, performing tricks and making people feel at home. Incredibly impressive was the magician's recognition of my companion from a similar cruise late last year.

Watching the sunset on the top deck is fun, the band plays and the hosts lure guests into dancing with a great musical trio who can play just about anything. On board with us was a large group of Taiwanese tourists who needed little persuasion. 

Food is served as a buffet on the first level with the female singer providing background  music. Again, most of the preparation is done on land and brought aboard for heating and serving only. The menu is extensive, offering salads, cold and hot dishes as well as desserts and tea or coffee. The quality of the food is not outstanding but it is fine. The green bean salad is good and crunchy and the Prawn with vegetables in a sweet and sour sauce is also tasty. Generally, vegetables are rather overcooked and the food is soft with the exception of the carved roast leg of pork that was incredibly tough. The highlight was the dessert menu. The selection of mini Indonesian desserts and the mountain of fresh seasonal fruit look gorgeous and the little fruit tarts, which I tried, are yummy. The range of foods on offer disappointed my friend, a vegetarian.

Stay seated and after dinner, the cabaret swings into action. And it fairly swings. We were treated to a wholly entertaining lip sync drag show abundant with fabulous costumes and sequins. Members of the audience were
drawn into the action and there were enormous eruptions of laughter from their friends and endless camera flashes. The crowd were definitely enjoying themselves.

On top deck again, the dancing continues and guests are handed their boarding photos before the boat docks once again at about S.45pm. This is definitely the party option - ideal for groups and definitely not for the faint hearted.

Starlight Dinner Cruise - From The Waka Experience

This, without a doubt, is the romantic option. Departing from the Benoa Harbour Marina at about 5.30, there is plenty of time to reach the open water before sunset. The Benoa Sakti is only used for the Dinner Cruise and it caters for a maximum of 20 people. Slightly faded and styled to its Balinese surroundings, the rattan chairs, wooden furniture, white linen and candles are calm, natural and elegant. Below is a bar with round tables and natural flooring but the glory is the upper deck that is canopied with beautifully laid freestanding tables.

Waka aims to cater to the avant-garde and selective It creates no unnecessary frills, just excellence in the quality of its decor, food and service - 'luxury but not'. They believe in the theatre of the experience and invite their guests to 'share with us the unique sights, sounds and tastes of our island of Bali'. The Starlight cruise was
described as a romantic night's rest on the water.

Balinese chicken soup is a light soup that tastes overwhelmingly of the corn it also contains. Ginger and pumpkin soup is creamy and thick its flavours melding deliciously.

House wine and drinks (except imports) are complimentary. Food is prepared on shore and barbecued or heated on board. It is designed to be unpretentious; with  turns of Balinese and Indonesian cuisines. Once aboard, toast canapés are offered. The tempe is delicious and utterly morish.. The boat goes out of the harbour for the sunset and then moors for dinner. We went on a  peerless evening and when the candles were lit in the twilight, it felt very special. Incidents of engagements and anniver saries and happy tears were recounted. A red rose is always given to men to present to their companion trite but nice!

The food is fate and plentiful and there is drinking water on the table throughout the meal. The appetizers are served on a dulang (a wooden pedestal), which is  quite brilliant. Food delivered charmingly arrives continuously; a selection of fresh fresh salads with choices of dressings and warm bread in earthenware baskets. My favourites were the twisted crunchy, cheesy bread sticks and the squid salad with mandarin orange and parsley.

The meat, fish and vegetable dishes that follow include crisp buttered sautéed vegetables, light rice with cashews and a gently peppered, flavour ridden poached fish. These are all served on substantial beige stoneware. The Assorted Barbeque Grill is astounding. In the know, our companions clearly knew what was coming and had held out especially.... The tuna steak with lemon butter is slightly rare but very soft. The sharpness of the lemon is perfect contrast. The prawn fish brochette with garlic sauce is mouthwatering with peppery prawns and chillied squid and great blocks of tender fish.... Chicken with barbecue sauce is tender with hints of ginger. Our guide for the evening saved himself for the beef. And you can have second  helpings.... How?

This is a gorgeous evening out if you are looking for an intimate and sophisticated experience. The staff is friendly and professional and the atmosphere is calm and utterly indulgent.

All evening dinner cruises depart from Benoa harbour. Most boats are also used during for excursions during the day and are transformed into restaurants for the evening cruise. All are priced at around $40 per person and include transfers to and from hotels or home. All can be chartered for

If you enjoy the hustle and bustle of a harbour, it is worth arriving a little earlier than departure time to mosey around and see the visiting yachts and old fishing boats.

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